Servo | Leederville

If only all service station food was as good as what you get at SERVO, a lofty all-day diner at the back of the Leederville Hotel; open for lunch, dinner and breakfast on weekends.

The menu is a freewheeling deep dive into flavour, without too much concern for cuisine-crossing moves. The best place to start is with a serve of puffy woodfired bread to mop up dips like hummus with burnt honey and chilli crunch, coconut tzatziki and muhammara. Then choose from the section devoted to shish skewers, grilled over a Japanese hibachi grill.

There are also pastas (think beef rigatoni, gnocchetti with basil pesto) and large plates from the wood oven such as baharat-rubbed lamb shoulder with pomegranate and pistachio; and tandoori cauliflower with tahini and macadamia. Plus, katsu sandos at lunch.

To drink, there’s a fun list of wines broken up into sections like “skinsy and crunchy” and “light and perfume” to give you some fuel for thought. As well, you’ll find a cocktail selection involving a seasonal Negroni, summer-ready spritz and more, plus a solid list of alcohol-free creations.

Step inside the 90-person space and you’ll see a giant black girder studded with wine glasses above the bar. Bi-fold windows blur the lines between indoors and the streetscape of buzzy Electric Lane. Despite the raw, industrial aesthetic, there’s also a casual, easygoing energy!